Once upon a sundae at Sargasso

Walk along Margate’s seafront and into Sargasso, and you’re instantly hit by a sense of East London-on-Sea. Younger sibling to Bethnal Green’s beloved Brawn, that should come as no surprise. It’s all exposed brick, simple wooden furniture and open shelves laden with cookbooks, records and liquors. Settling into my counter stool, I ordered a Paloma to sip as I eyed the menu, with Bob Marley singing away in the background. Centred around small plates, a few things immediately stood out and the waitress kindly guided me through the rest.

To start, a healthy serving of, granted, not-so-healthy parmesan fritters. They were bite-sized balls of brilliance – the perfect level of cheesy richness. Onto something lighter next to balance things out. Sliced melon and cucumber lay resting on a spread of ricotta, along with some chilli and mint. Ever wondered what summer on a small plate might look and taste like? The answer is: this.

I couldn’t stay away from the deep-fried goods for too long, though, so it was time for some courgette fritti with anchovies. The saltiness of the anchovies cut through the already-light batter of the courgettes to create a winning combination. The last of the small plates came bearing two whole sardines drizzled with a zesty-looking and zestier-tasting gremolata and a slice of lemon on the side.

Of course, it wouldn’t have been a trip to the seaside without the reward of a soft serve to finish. With a drizzling of chocolate and a sprinkle of hazelnuts, I scooped it all up with childlike glee and declared a sundae very well spent.