Dinner and a show at BiBi
On the corner of Mayfair’s North Audley Street, BiBi has settled right in to its smart surroundings. Stepping inside, the decor is rich with colour and elegant in design. The sheer quality of furnishings sets the tone instantly – diners are in for the highest quality of food too. And with Chet Sharma at the helm, it really isn’t any wonder. Having previously worked as development chef at both Moor Hall and L’Enclume, to say the menu at BiBi is inventive would be an understatement.
Settling into my counter seat overlooking the open kitchen, it was hard to peel my eyes away from the chefs passionately at work before me. There was saucing, grilling, chopping, frying, plating (I could go on) taking place in such harmony, it was like watching a choreographed show. Once I’d finally been able to draw my eyes from said show and towards my menu, I opted for the pescatarian tasting option, along with a bottle of BiBi’s house white.
The meal kicked off with a few smaller dishes, the first of which was some Wookey-hole cheese papads alongside a divine three-layered cream and chutney dip. Then came lobster, Dorset crab and caviar dokhla – an early contender for my dish of the day. I couldn’t get enough of its taramasalata-like creaminess, with the added kick of spice. Crisp sweetcorn kurkure followed and, after taking my first bite, it didn’t take long to spot a theme. It was all really, really good – and it was only just getting started…
Chunks of Devon scallop, bathing in nimbu pani (Indian lemonade), was up next. An eye-catching dish bursting with a zesty freshness that was so good, I couldn’t help but scoop up the last of the lemonade with my spoon. (I debated drinking it straight from the bowl, but thought better of it.) Moving on, then, to the khatti meethi stone bass. The fish itself was grilled excellently, resulting in a succulent middle and a crisp outside. The crust sitting on top of the bass brought a wonderful crunch, and the spiced sauce beneath cut through without being overpowering. All of this was sat on top of a dinky dosa that brought a hint of sweetness and a pillowy texture. Rating this dish out of ten, I’d give it an eleven.
For my main course, okra salan came alongside an army of accompaniments – a bowl of pickled jersey royal potatoes and courgettes – which were moreish and fragrant – as well as some dahl, roti and rice. The rich and velvety peanut sauce of the okra dish blew me away, so I was thankful to be armed with my roti to mop up every morsel of it…
As will all good things, they have to come to an end. Luckily, this was by way of a choice of two kulfis. I chose the saffron and white chocolate version, which I’d describe as a decorated Mini Magnum in appearance, but so much more in taste. My verdict on BiBi? Dazzling. From the theatre of the open kitchen to the flavours that came from it, and even down to the 90s hip hop playlist that served as the backdrop, BiBi is doing things differently. In doing so, it’s also making its mark as London’s most exciting Indian restaurant right now.
