An alternative guide to the Algarve

By know, Portugal’s south coast might primarily be known for its built-up beach restaurants, modern villas and pristine golf courses. But past that lies a different side to the Algarve – one that still retains the rustic beauty of its past. From charming fishing villages to untouched beaches, from fabulous restaurants to family-run vineyards, there’s so much to be explored. Featuring a few of the best design-led stays and some of the region’s best restaurants, here’s your alternative guide to the Algarve ahead of your next trip.

Where to stay

Casas da Quinta de Cima

A boutique hotel with a history, the agricultural estate in which Casas da Quinta de Cima quietly lies has been in the same family for five generations. Beautifully designed to blend in with the nature that surrounds, while the interiors are pared-back, vintage furniture and characterful artworks bring plenty of personality too. Alongside an en suite bedroom, each spacious suite has its own living room, kitchen and outdoor terrace, so you really can make it your home away from home. Slow mornings start with a wonderful breakfast spread, followed by whatever you fancy thereafter. Take a picnic down to the nearest beach, Fábrica, head slightly further along to Cacela Velha or simply lounge within the hotel’s peaceful gardens with your latest read. Come evening, help yourself to a slice of homemade cake and a sundowner or two from the honesty bar, before heading out for dinner at one of the region’s great restaurants. A wonderful place that I can’t wait to revisit.

Rooms from 191€ per night

EM1242, Vila Nova de Cacela

Âmago

Hidden in the hills just fifteen minutes outside of Faro, Âmago is a perfect base for exploring the Algarve. Designed with slow living in mind, this recently restored guesthouse is a place to indulge in peace, quiet and not much else. The interiors throughout are a minimalist’s dream, while outside in the gardens and around the pool a sense of serenity pervades. Wake each morning and enjoy a freshly-made breakfast on the tranquil terrace before heading out for a day of exploring. Founders, Alex and Liz are wonderful hosts, with plenty of suggestions for things to do in the area – from restaurants to day trips.

Rooms from 138€ per night

SB58 Caminho das Alfarrobeiras, 8005-502, Santa Bárbara de Nexe, Faro

Villa Lage

For a celebratory getaway with your nearest and dearest, Villa Lage is a very special place in the most spectacular of settings overlooking the Ria Formosa National Park. Take a seat on the terrace for your morning coffee, then again for your evening port and tonic and admire the shifting landscape. Set across two houses, each with three bedrooms, the interiors are a perfect blend of luxury and simplicity. There’s a wonderful team – including a fabulous in-house chef – on hand too to make your stay as relaxing as can be. A real treat.

Prices vary depending on season

Estrada do Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, Sitio do Pinheiro, 1134 - 8800 118 Luz de Tavira

Where to eat

austa

Back in summer 2023, austa arrived as a breath of fresh air to the Algarve’s food scene and, since then, it has gone on to gain a stellar reputation. Owners, Emma and David have created a design-led haven very much in keeping with the restaurant’s ethos of simplicity and provenance. The menu changes regularly to reflect the best ingredients from land – they have their own on-site vegetable garden – and sea, which means you’ll always get to try something new. But if the bread dessert is on the menu, make sure to order it.

R. Cristóvão Pires Norte, 8135-117 Almancil

ATO

Tucked away along a cobbled side street in the centre of Faro, you’ll find one of the city’s most regarded restaurants, ATO. Head chef, Sean Marsh (formerly of London’s St. John and Bar Douro) and team have created an intimate and relaxed space in which guests can enjoy a menu of creative dishes and great wines to go with. When I dined, highlights included the braised aubergine, harissa and spring onion chutney, and a traditional Portuguese touchino do céu with figs and whipped cream for dessert. The playlist was great too.

R. do Albergue 16, 8000-416 Faro

Casa Corvo

For a fantastic, no frills lunch, it has to be Casa Corvo in the fishing village of Fuseta. Order your choice of fresh fish or seafood alongside a Montanheira salad, chips and a jug of sangria for simple Algarvian cuisine at its very best. Afterwards, catch a boat to Praia da Fuseta for a post-feast sesta along its beautiful white sands. A perfect afternoon.

Largo 1° de Maio 33, 8700-038 Fuseta

Where to drink

Morgado do Quintao

Head to the family-run vineyard, Morgado do Quintao for a taste of its Algarvian wines. Whether you want to try them alongside lunch beneath the olive tree or enjoy a full tasting and tour, Morgado do Quintao hosts a number of different experiences from which visitors can choose. There’s even the option to sip on their famed Vinho Verde alongside fresh oysters from nearby Ria de Alvor as the sun sets.

Morgado do Quintão, 8400-000 Lagoa

Bean17

In need of your flat white fix? Bean17 in Loulé’s central market has got you covered. A cosy café popular with locals for its speciality coffee, it serves sandwiches and cakes if you’re looking for a bite to eat too. Tie your visit in with a market morning for a wander around the array of stalls with your coffee in hand.

R. Ataíde de Oliveira 11-1, 8100-535 Loulé

Wild Thing

For a great selection of natural wines and local beers in a relaxed setting, make your way to Wild Thing in the former fishing village of Cabanas. It’s a great option for a drink before or after dinner at neighbouring restaurant, Noélia, with rooftop seating too.

R. Cap. Jorge Ribeiro 9, 8800-593 Tavira

What to do

Go flamingo spotting along the Ria Formosa

Stretching some sixty kilometres along the coast, Ria Formosa is the Algarve’s beloved National Park famed for its marshes, salt flats, sandbanks and islands. Teeming with wildlife, you can spot flamingoes, dolphins and purple swamp hens (the park’s symbol) to name a few. Popular with cyclists, walkers and campers, it’s a nature-lover’s paradise.

Take a boat to an idyllic island beach

Along the Ria Formosa, you’ll find a cluster of pristine white beaches with clear Atlantic waters. Accessible by boat (or by foot when the tide’s low), pack a picnic and venture over to one of them for a few hours of sunbathing and ocean swimming. I’ve already mentioned Ilha da Fuseta, Fábrica and Cacela Velha, but other great options include Ilha de Tavira, Ilha da Armona and Praia da Cabana.

Discover the region’s charming towns and bustling markets

There are so many wonderful little towns to explore dotted around the region – my favourites are Loulé, Tavira and Olhão. On a market morning, there’s nothing better than heading in early for a coffee and pastel de nata at a local café before making your way around the stretch of stalls selling an array of local produce. From figs and tomatoes to honey and port, it’s worth saving some room in your suitcase to bring a taste of Portugal back home with you.

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